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August 2002,
North Sulawesi, Indonesia
The
experience and setting of our North Sulawesi trip was a stark
contrast to our previous Papuan trip . We stayed for only three
nights in an older Manado resort privileged with soft king-size
beds, ac, and real showers. The comfort of luxury was nearly
forgotten by then. Manado, a highly populated city with high
rise and vehicular traffic, could be seen from the pier of our
resort. It is an established diving locale where there are more
resorts strung along the beaches than there are visiting divers.
We
dove the famous Bunaken wall and found its beauty preserved
through efforts of conservation by the government. One late
afternoon, we entered the water only to discover an adult napoleon
swimming around the boat. Our boat crew were smart enough to
feed it leftover rice and chicken from our lunch. We anchored
ourseleves to the bottom and watched to see this creature feasts
with hundreds of reef fish that joined in.
 Manado
Bay, literally in front of our resort, was a pleasant treasure
chest. The muck critters that reside there were so fascinating
and we couldn't get enough of them. The highlight of Manado
Bay for us was a night dive right in front of the resort's jetty.
It was such a shallow dive that our air lasted longer than our
guide's dive light. We encountered many types of scorpion fish,
a couple of stargazers, cuttlefish, hermit crabs, a juvenile
sweetlips, and the list goes on

Of course the trip, brief
as it may, wouldn't be complete without trying out the famous
Lembeh Strait. An hour car ride took us to Bitung harbor, located
off Lembeh strait, where we boarded upon our rented boat. The
water was very cold, like always. We dressed in layers and put
on hoods, but they seemed to do no good when we first jumped
into the water. However, it was all soon forgotten once we started
encountering the critters of Lembeh Strait. We realized then
why the place has been referred to as the "muck diving
capital of the world." Everything we found were so weird
and fascinating. Our two guides were very good at spotting these
critters that blend so well with the surrounding. A tiny octopus
tried to hide from us by sucking a leaf and covered its body
with it. Some critters were covered in thick algae, perhaps
because they don't move fast enough. A dive site called Hairball
contained an array of hairy critters much to our amazement.
In the end of the day, whe did a dive to see the shy mandarin
fish mating in piles of broken corals.
 Jo
had a blast taking photographs at Lembeh Strait, so much so
that she decided to come back the next week by herself. All
of us were intrigued by Lembeh and certainly look forward to
the next return, complete with a thicker suit
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